New friends call it St. Barts, while old-time visitors prefer St. Barths; either way, it’s short for St. Barthélemy – named by its discoverer Christopher Columbus in 1493 and pronounced “San Bar-te-le-mee”. The most northern of the French West Indies, it’s the only Caribbean island with a touch of Sweden in its personality. From a backwater visited occasionally by pirates it became a thriving trading post for 50 years before slipping back into obscurity. However, today the island is one of the Caribbean’s most luxurious and desirable destinations.

Originally settled by the French, in 1784 it was traded to Sweden in exchange for port rights in Göteborg. King Gustav III called the capital Gustavia, laid out and paved streets, built three forts and turned the community into a prosperous free port. But in 1852 a catastrophic fire swept across much of Gustavia. By this time trade routes had changed and that led to a decline in both trade and population, and most of the city was not rebuilt. Finally in 1878 the Swedes, anxious to cut their losses on St. Bart’s, sold the island back to France for the sum of 320,000F (about $44,000 US today). Some traces of the Swedish era still remain, in Swedish street names, some period buildings, and the island’s duty-free status.

St Bart’s is a blend of the essence of the Caribbean mixed with the essence of France, and is the favoured retreat of a sleek clientele of stars and the seriously rich. It’s sophistication in the tropics, chic, wealthy, and so very Parisian. For a long time the island was a paradise for a few millionaires, such as the Rockefellers and the Rothschilds, however nowadays St. Bart’s is developing a broader base of tourism as it opens more hotels and villas. A French “savoir vivre” exists, and the island is definitely for the style conscious – casual but always chic!

Although its elongated shape and hilly terrain make it seem larger, St. Bart’s total land area is only 8 sq. miles. It lies 15 miles southeast of St. Martin and 140 miles north of Guadeloupe. It has a population of nearly 7000, mostly tracing their roots back to Norman and Breton setters in the 17th century, but there are still some descendants of Swedish merchants and more recent arrivals from mainland France. Unlike most of the Eastern Caribbean islands, people of African descent are rare on St. Bart’s. Dry, rocky and sunny, St. Bart’s was never one of the Caribbean’s “sugar islands” and thus never developed an extensive slave base.

Steep hills divide the island into several valleys, usually open on one side to the sea. Each valley is distinctive, with its own variation of plants, animals, topography and type of architecture. Dryland flora such as cacti and bougainvillea thrive here, along with frangipani, hibiscus, flamboyant trees, and many varieties of palms. Local reptiles include lizards, iguanas and harmless grass snakes. There are also sea turtles that lay their eggs along the beaches on the northwest side of the island from April to August. Seabirds, including frigates, are found on the numerous islets off St. Bart’s.

The capital, Gustavia, is a picture postcard little town, easy to explore on foot. Downtown consists of three or four dozen boutiques, duty-free shops, an open-air market called the Ti-Marché near the Town Hall (or Mairie de St. Barth), many excellent restaurants and bars in historic houses dating back to the Swedish time and the early French settlers, and Shell Beach. The small communities of Colombier and Corossol are very different, with the older women wearing traditional garb of provincial France – ankle-length dresses, bare feet, and starched white sunbonnets called quichenottes (kiss-me-not hats). They don’t like to be photographed, but aren’t shy about selling you some of their handmade straw work. There is also Ingenu Magras’ Inter-Oceans Museum, with more than 9,000 seashells from around the world. Other small communities to linger in include Lorient, St-Jean, and Grand Cul de Sac.

Thing to know before you go:
Valid passports are recommended for all US, Canadian and European Union citizens traveling as tourists to St. Bart’s. For citizens of other countries, a visa may be required in addition to a passport. A return or ongoing ticket is also required of all visitors.

Language – French is the official language but most of the people speak some English, particularly those in hotels and restaurants. If you attempt to use even a little bit of French, it is appreciated – bring along a pocket dictionary!

Currency – The local currency is the Euro, but US dollars, credit cards and traveler’s cheques are readily acceptable everywhere, although each shop sets its own exchange rate! The value of a Euro is similar to the US dollar, making it easier to use than francs.

Electricity – The electric current is 220V, 50 cycles. Appliances made in the US and Canada require French plug converters and transformers. Many hotels and villas already have them – ask before you go.

Water – tap water is drinkable in most places and excellent local bottled water is available in stores and restaurants.

Weights and measures – St. Bart’s uses the metric system and the 24 hour clock.

Medical facilities – Gustavia has a small hospital with six resident doctors and five dentists. There are pharmacies at La Savane Commerical Center in St. Jean and in Gustavia.

Communications – Almost all pay phones are card phones. Télécartes (phone cards) are sold at post offices and at the gas station near the airport. Coin-booths do not exist on this island. To call the US, dial 00, wait for a second tone, then dial 1, area code and number.

Postage stamps can be purchased at post offices, cafés-tabacs and at hotel newsstands or souvenir shops.

Email & Internet Access – Centre Alizes on rue de la République in Gustavia provides Internet access.

Time – When standard time is in effect in the United States and Canada, St. Bart’s is 1 hour ahead of the US east coast. When daylight saving time is in effect (April to October) St. Bart’s time is the same as New York’s.

Business hours – Offices and shops are generally open from about 8 am to 7 pm Monday to Saturday, with most taking a lunchtime siesta. Many places also shut down on Wednesday afternoon. Banking hours are approximately 8 am to noon, and 2 to 3:30 pm weekdays.

Shopping – St. Bart’s is a duty-free port, so perfumes, silver, china, sportswear, watches, jewelry, liquor and tobacco sell at low prices. Many bargains are to be had, particularly for top-quality “name” merchandise that costs much more back home. Unique to the island is their delicately executed straw work – baskets, handbags, hats and woven by the ladies of Corossol and Colombier. The island artists sell paintings and lithographs, and you may also see some interesting block-printed resort clothing in cotton. Beauty lotions and suntan oils made from island plants and other natural materials also make unusual and interesting gifts. For wine lovers, La Cave in Marigot and La Cave du Port Franc in Public carry fine French vintages, stored in temperature-controlled “cellars.”

Some famous name boutiques have opened up in St. Bart’s, such as Hermes, Gucci, Polo and Cartier. They carry haute couture, French and Italian sportswear, lingerie, jewelry, etc. As in France, most stores are closed for lunch; many stay open until 7 pm.

Activities:
Beaches and snorkeling - There are about 14 beaches, of various sizes, each with its own personality and each open to the general public. Even in high season, you can find a nearly empty beach. Topless sunbathing is common, but nudism is forbidden. However, on some of the more secluded beaches, such as Saline and Gouverneur, the restriction is not strictly adhered to. For beaches with water sports, hotels and restaurants, try Grand Cul de Sac, or St. Jean, which is actually two beaches, separated by the Eden Rock promontory – there’s good snorkeling west of the rock. For the most private, (and hardest to get to) it’s Columbier, a 30 minute climb down a cactus-bordered trail from the top of the hill – easier to approach it by boat! Flamands is the most beautiful of the hotel beaches, a huge stretch of white sand fringed by palms. Lorient is popular with St. Bart’s families and surfers, who like its rolling waves, and Marigot is a small calm beach with good snorkeling along the rocky far end. Just a five minute walk away from Gustavia is Shell Beach (Petite Anse de Galet), popular with shell collectors – the beach is almost entirely made up of small shells, with hardly any sand. Popular snorkeling spots include Anse de Colombier, La Petite Anse and Lorient. Snorkeling gear can be rented from Marine Service in Gustavia or at Sub One in St. Jean.

Diving - Almost all the best dive sites are managed by the St. Bart’s Marine Reserve, set up in 1996 to try and protect its marine resources. They are mainly off the islets surrounding St. Bart’s, which are rich in marine life and coral. The most spectacular dives are around Pain de Sucre, an islet off Gustavia harbour, or around a small cape, l’Ane Rouge, off Columbier bay, or around Coco islet. Just off Gustavia, you can also dive around Le Kayali, a fishing boat that sank a few years ago. For more information about the Reserve, head for the town hall. Two of the largest dive shops are West Indies Dive, at the Marine Service, and La Bulle at the Ocean Must Marina, both at La Pointe in Gustavia. They offer single dives, four-day open-water certification courses for beginners, and night dives as well.

Other Watersports - There’s a large protected bay at Grand Cul de Sac that’s great for beginners at windsurfing, and some nice wave action beyond the reef for more advanced types. Other good places are on the windier side of St. Bart’s at Lorient, St. Jean and Flamands beaches. For surfing, head for Lorient, Anse des Cayes and Anse Toiny. You can rent boards and boogie boards at Hookipa Surf Shop or Totem Surf, by the day or half-day.

Fishing charters can be arranged – deep sea fishing for tuna, dorado, marlin and wahoo, all caught off St. Bart’s. You can choose to go for a full day or a half day.

Horseback riding – Ranch des Flamands is the place to go – it offers 1½ hour excursions for beginning and experienced riders, one in the morning and another later on in the afternoon. Tennis – several hotels have tennis courts, some private, some for outside guests. Other courts can be found at Le Flamboyant Tennis Club and the Sports Center of Colombier. An air-conditioned squash court is found at the Isle de France hotel.

Food and Drinks – There are many, many fine French restaurants on St. Bart’s – and many of them are very pricey. A la carte prices at the well-known French restaurants are very high, but many offer a more reasonable prix-fixe menu. Lunch is usually a less costly meal than dinner, and Italian, creole and French-creole restaurants tend to be less expensive day and night. You should be aware that restaurants on St. Bart’s typically charge for drinking water (a French custom), which comes by the bottle, both sparkling and flat, and costs about $4. There are also moderately priced places to eat, but as most of the island’s food is imported, you should plan on spending 25% more than you would at home to eat, whether it is at a restaurant or in your own villa. Wine is the drink of choice here, and because of St. Bart’s duty-free status, that means wine is one of the best buys on the island. It can be purchased from grocery stores around the island; restaurants generally have long wine lists, although their prices are much higher.

Jackets are rarely required and rarely worn, as St. Bart’s is very informal. Casual sports clothes in cotton and other light fabrics are fine by day, as are jeans, T-shirts, etc. At night, women usually dress up in island resortwear, but you never see a jacket and tie on a man.